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夏季社交着装指南

2008-07-03
夏季社交着装指南
(lifestyle)Midsummer's day dream
作者:英国《金融时报》撰稿人埃德温娜•英格斯•钱伯斯(Edwina Ings-Chambers)
2008年6月30日 星期一

夏季盛事的日程安排,以及时尚着装的两难处境,似乎就像草莓和温布尔登网球赛(Wimbledon)一样交缠在一起。如果去运动场合,或是去花园餐会和电影首映式,究竟要怎样穿戴打扮,才可以既体现出你向传统的致意,又表现出你对未来的顾盼?要怎样穿,才可以既透气、又充满夏意,同时还能在一场阵雨突然袭临之时做到充分保暖。

其实,这很简单。别想着摆出一副自家女儿要出嫁那种高高在上的架式,不要试图去超过塞西尔•比顿(Cecil Beaton)给《窈窕淑女》(My Fair Lady)里设计的服饰(注:塞西尔•比顿以此片获第37届奥斯卡最佳服装设计奖),找一些品质优良的基本装束就好。实际上,对于一位想要安排好季节服饰的人来说,茱丽亚•罗伯茨在《漂亮女人》(Pretty Woman)里的着装是更合适的电影指南。凭借一件圆点丝质的裙服,她就从站街女摇身一变而成了马球赛场边的名媛。我们并不是要选择相同的起点,但你也能明白:其实事情并没有那么容易。

在这个以套装为主导的季节里,没有谁能比得了柏蒂温妮达(Bottega Veneta)。它那种漂白过的沙灰色抽褶女上衣,几乎可以应付任何裁剪师的两难境地:从亨利商业管理学院(Henley)(不要先选择长裤,而应是裙裤),到夏季的婚礼,甚或是卡地亚国际马球赛(Cartier Polo)上都能适用。穿上它——配上高跟鞋、腰带、帽子,甚至也许是手套,或是配上楔形跟或平底凉鞋。

皇家阿斯科特赛马会(Ascot)只剩下两天的时间,如果你的行头还没有置办齐整,你的麻烦就来了。但是,为了今后的参考起见,或是为了应付其他一些穿戴要求严格、并且规范细致的华丽场合,布鲁斯•奥德菲尔德(Bruce Oldfield)则可以说是一位行家里手,他几乎可以为任何场合提供一套优雅的解决方案。此外,你也不要将他排除在任何年龄段之外,因为他的客户范围可是从21岁一直到50多岁。

尽管从严格意义上来讲,你也能在皇家赛马会上女王出现的场合(Royal Enclosure)穿条长裤(只要它与你的短上衣相配。而且,如果你想脱掉上衣,就要把肩膀遮住),但奥德菲尔德说:“穿条长裤?我的客户想都不要去想。对于她们来说,阿斯科特是真真正正能够穿戴一新的梦幻机遇。”今年他最大的成功之处,是他的条纹裙或条纹套装(Sienna),以及配搭的一件带腰带的短上衣(Blaise)。这套服装也能适合其他的正式场合,例如格林德伯恩歌剧节(Glyndebourne)——如果你不想穿曳地长裙的话。

至于那些较为放松的运动盛会,例如温布尔登、洛兹板球赛(Lord's),甚或是多维尔赛马会(Deauville Races),花点钱买条漂亮的亚麻长裤就好了。有了Chin Choi的邮购/网上目录,就不必再到别的地方去找。这家商号专营质量最好的基本服饰,包括丝质衬衣、T恤和V字领无袖衫。所有这些可供商品的颜色都非黑即白。它的长裤裁剪良好,全部加有衬里,裤腰合体,长及脚面,甚至可以机洗(售价85英镑)。

根据不同的场合,可以将它与各种服饰搭配,从布莱顿(Breton)风格的条纹T恤(“小帆船”(Petit Bateau)店里有售),到酷肖伊夫圣洛朗(YSL)风格的蝴蝶领白亚麻女式长袖衬衣(可从网上流行服装店布里特•林特内(Britt Lintner)购买)。作为银行家和母亲的林特内成立的这家网站,可以向时间紧张的女性提供衣橱里的常备服饰,其产品系列包括方便搭配的单件服饰、套装以及短大衣等。

平底鞋可以增加此类装束的运动感。此外,平底鞋也是工作场合可以让人接受的一类选择——这得要感谢一下萨科齐夫人(Madame Sarkozy)。萨尔瓦多•菲拉格慕(Salvatore Ferragamo) 有Varina牌芭蕾平底鞋,它比公司最畅销的Vera牌无带轻舞鞋的后跟还要低。这种鞋有缎面的,也有特制的,分别拥有各式各样的夏季色彩。另一种选择,则是可以将“芭蕾美人”(Pretty Ballerinas)生产的无带轻舞鞋与某套服饰相搭配。“芭蕾美人”刚刚推出一种定做服务,你可以选择鞋面的颜色、材质、镶边,以及衬里的色调。

如果出席一些华丽的晚会,例如在某个财阀游艇上举办的晚宴,或是球星老婆或女友(WAG,注:英国俗语,wives and girlfriends的缩写,指代那些依靠球星丈夫或男友生活的女人)风格的婚礼,最好是从头到脚地换上影视节目里常出现的那种塔丽莎•盖堤式(Taltha Getty)阿拉伯男装风格的服饰。这就意味着巴利(Bally)那种抢眼的、带有少数民族纹样,并通过底裙加以完善的宽松短服,再配上正经八百的高跟鞋,以及亮闪闪的配饰,它就定会变成富有超级魅力的一袭套装。

在此之后,等“大出风头”(Big Appearance)的机会一结束,只要简简单单地套件连身衬衣,穿一点有所遮挡的游泳服,就可以安然度过夏天余下的日子。

译者/李晖《生活时尚》

阅读本文章英文,请点击 (lifestyle)Midsummer's day dream
(lifestyle)Midsummer's day dream

By Edwina Ings-Chambers
Monday, June 30, 2008

The summer events calendar and style quandaries seem to go together like strawberries and Wimbledon. What to wear to sporting parties, garden receptions and film premieres so you manage both a nod to tradition and a wink at the future? What to wear that is airy and summery but warm enough to withstand a sudden shower? Actually, it’s simple. Forget mother-of-the-bride over-the-topness, and do not attempt to outdo Cecil Beaton’s costumes in My Fair Lady: just get some good basics. In fact, a more appropriate movie reference for anyone trying to negotiate the season is Julia Roberts in Pretty Woman, transformed from hooker to socialite at a polo event by dint of a polka-dot silk dress.

Not that we’re starting from the same point but you get the idea: things really are that easy.In a season where the dress largely rules, there’s no beating Bottega Veneta. Its pleated frock in a bleached shade of sand is the answer to almost every sartorial dilemma, from Henley (no trousers, divided skirts or culottes allowed) to a summer wedding or even Cartier Polo.

Dress it up – high heels, a belt, hat, maybe even gloves – or wear with wedges or flat sandals.With only two days of Ascot left, if you haven’t got your outfit sorted you’re in trouble. But for future reference, or for other fancy occasions that issue strict dress code details, Bruce Oldfield is a past master and can provide elegant solutions for almost anything. Don’t rule him out for any age group either; his clients range from 21 to 50 plus.Although strictly speaking you can wear trousers in the Royal Enclosure (as long as they match your jacket and, if you decide to shed said jacket, your shoulders are covered), Oldfield says: “None of my clients would even think of wearing trousers. For them Ascot is a fantastic opportunity to get really, really dressed up.” His biggest success this year has been a striped skirt or dress (Sienna) and matching belted jacket (Blaise) that could also work for other formal events such as Glyndebourne, if you don’t want to go full length. For more relaxed sporting events such as Wimbledon, Lord’s or even the Deauville Races, invest in a good pair of linen trousers.

Look no further than Chin Choi, a mail-order/online catalogue that specialises in the best of basics, including silk shirts, T-shirts and V-neck jumpers, all of which are available in either black or white. Its well-cut linen trousers are fully lined, have a proper waistband, come in two leg lengths and are even machine washable (£85).Depending on the occasion, team them with anything from a Breton-stripe T-shirt (available at Petit Bateau) to the YSL-like white linen blouse with a bow-tied neck and full sleeves from online boutique Britt Lintner. Lintner, a banker and mother, founded the website to offer wardrobe staples for time-stretched women. The collection consists of easy to co-ordinate separates, dresses and coats.Flat shoes add to the sportiness of such outfits and are, once again, an acceptable on-duty option, thanks to Madame Sarkozy’s example.

Salvatore Ferragamo has Varina ballet flats – with a flatter heel than its bestselling Vera pump – available in satin and patent as well as an array of summery colours. Alternatively, pumps can be made to match an outfit at Pretty Ballerinas, which has just introduced a customised service in which you can choose both external colours, fabrics and trims as well as lining shades.

For fancy evening events – dinner on an oligarch’s yacht or a WAG-style wedding – it’s best to approach clothes as theatre and channel Talitha Getty in full kaftan-ification. This means Bally, with its clashing ethnic-print tunic complete with underslip; teamed with serious heels and glinting accessories it works – just – as a super-glamorous dress.Then, once the Big Appearance is over, simply dispense with the slip and wear the cover-up poolside for the rest of the summer.
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